WAVE TRANSFORMATION IN THE NEARSHORE ZONE - A REVIEW

This paper reviews works related to nearshore wave propagation with an emphasis on several aspects related to coastal morphodynamic modelling including randomness and directionality of waves, energy transfer and dissipation in the surf zone, shallow water non linearities and long period motions. The first part briefly reviews four main issues in laboratory experiments and field campaigns. The second part is devoted to spectral and probabilistic approaches. Then, recent developments of advanced numerical models based on Boussinesq equations are reviewed. The last part is devoted to low frequency waves and vortical motions.