In culture, keratinocytes generally express aberrant growth and differentiation programs, which are largely normalized in cell transplants. In order to study the underlying regulatory phenomena and to distinguish between intrinsic properties and external factors, different in vitro and in vivo models have been applied using human keratinocytes from foreskin and trunk skin. When transplanted onto nude mice, keratinocytes reformed a regular epithelium with expression of the differentiation markers, keratins Kl and K.10, involucrin and filaggrin. Tissue homeostasis improved in later transplants, as made apparent by coexpression and regular distribution of Kl and K10. Since this was achieved in transplants, whether in contact with mesenchyme or separated by collagen matrix, renormalization was obviously mediated by diffusible factors. In vitro, the host-mesenchymal influence could largely be mimicked by recombining organotypic cultures (keratinocytes on lifted collagen gels) with de-epidermized dermis, but tissue homeostasis was apparently not achieved. Comparing keratinocytes from trunk skin and foreskin, differences observed in situ persisted in isolated cells and reconstituted tissues. The hyperproliferative character of foreskin epidermis, with its less-pronounced stratum granulosum, was maintained in recombinant cultures and transplants along with the expression of keratin K13 (typical for foreskin in situ) irrespective of the type of mesenchyme. Thus, we could demonstrate with these model systems that: (a) the regulation of keratinocyte growth and differentiation is mesenchyme-dependent; (b) it is mediated by diffusible factors; but that (c) differences between epidermis of different body sites are also controlled by intrinsic programs. © 1990, International Society of Differentiation. All rights reserved.