DISPERSION-RELATION OF RANDOM GRAVITY-WAVES .1. THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK

A theoretical framework is given, upon which to examine the dispersion relation of random gravity waves. First a weakly nonlinear theory is developed to the third-order for a statistically stationary and homogeneous field of random gravity waves. Both the spectrum of forced waves and the nonlinear dispersion relation are expressed in terms of the spectrum of free waves under the assumption of the Gaussian process for the first-order surface displacement. Next a method is proposed by which to separate each of the spectra of free and forced waves from the measured spectrum. This gives practical and powerful means of investigating the statistical structure of wind waves. © 1979, Cambridge University Press. All rights reserved.