Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations

The stability of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (VC-PMG(R)) in both standard solutions and topical formulations was investigated by direct RP-HPLC analysis after sample dilution with a suitable aqueous-organic solvent mixture. The results showed that, whereas the two vitamin C derivatives were more stable than ascorbic acid, the ascorbyl esters showed significant differences. Esterification with palmitic acid in 6 position did not prevent hydrolysis of the molecule, either in solution or in emulsion; only the special preparation of products with high viscoelastic properties was able to reduce the typical behaviour of this compound. Conversely, the introduction of the phosphoric group in 2 position protected the molecule from break-up of the enediol system, confirming VC-PMG as a very stable derivative of Vitamin C that may be easily used in various types of cosmetic products. (C) 1997 Elsevier Science B.V.