Low frequency swash motion induced by wave grouping

被引:42
作者
Baldock, TE [1 ]
Holmes, P [1 ]
Horn, DP [1 ]
机构
[1] UNIV LONDON BIRKBECK COLL,DEPT GEOG,LONDON W1P 2LL,ENGLAND
基金
英国工程与自然科学研究理事会;
关键词
swash; random waves; wave groups; breaking waves; surf beat; beaches;
D O I
10.1016/S0378-3839(97)81750-4
中图分类号
TU [建筑科学];
学科分类号
0813 ;
摘要
This paper concerns the low frequency motion of swash directly induced by wave grouping on a steep beach. A new experimental investigation is presented which considers the hydrodynamics of the inner surf zone and swash zone using vertical wave gauges and a run-up wire. Results for regular waves, wave groups and random waves are discussed, with particular reference to low frequency motions. The inner surf zone and swash zone are found to be unsaturated at incident short wave frequencies and, as a result, significant wave grouping is apparent at the shoreline. The low frequency motion in the surf zone is found to be in phase with the incident wave grouping and may therefore be regarded as a time varying set-up (Watson and Peregrine, 1992). The low frequency motion of the swash is shown to be an order of magnitude greater than that in the inner surf zone, inconsistent with cross-shore standing long waves, for which no evidence is found. We demonstrate that the low frequency motion of the shoreline provides an excellent approximation to the run-up of individual bores and therefore describes the run-up envelope. Spectral analysis shows that the low frequency motion of the swash is directly linked to the modulations in offshore wave height, i.e. the low frequency energy in the incident wave envelope, In addition, the random wave run-up spectra show an f(-4) high frequency roll-off, as found by Huntley et al. (1977). The accumulated data show that, unless the surf zone is totally saturated, a significant proportion of the low frequency swash motion may be directly due to incident wave grouping and rot standing long waves. (C) 1997 Elsevier Science B.V.
引用
收藏
页码:197 / 222
页数:26
相关论文
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