Wave energy transformation on natural profiles

被引:49
作者
Lippmann, TC
Brookins, AH
Thornton, EB
机构
[1] Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA
[2] Nav. Atl. Meteorol. Oceanogr. Ctr., Virginia Beach, VA
关键词
D O I
10.1016/0378-3839(95)00036-4
中图分类号
TU [建筑科学];
学科分类号
0813 ;
摘要
A wave energy transformation model, which includes wave breaking within the surf zone described by surface rollers, is developed for randomly varying waves over arbitrary bathymetry, The model includes roller energy gradients in the energy flux balance, and further specifies the dissipation function based on roller theory following Svendsen. Root-mean-square wave heights, H-rms, are found across the surf zone by numerical iteration, and compare well with field data acquired on both barred and near-planar beaches. The model has two free parameters, sigma, the mean angle to vertical of the wave/roller interface roughly representing the type of breaker, and gamma, a measure of breaking wave saturation equal to the ratio of H-rms to local depth. Optimal values of both parameters are chosen by model fitting, and show the model to be insensitive to sigma. Although the model is sensitive to the choice of gamma, values are consistent with field data. The surface roller model behaves similarly to the bore dissipation model of Thornton and Guza for a particular parameter choice, and is used to decrease model dependence to one input parameter, gamma.
引用
收藏
页码:1 / 20
页数:20
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