Numerical simulation of surf zone dynamics

A numerical model that solves the unsteady, incompressible, Navier-Stokes equations has been utilized to simulate monochromatic, spilling and plunging waves over a sloping bed. The volume of fluid technique is used to track the location of the highly complex, discontinuous free surface. The influence of wave boundary conditions and the order of accuracy of the numerical approximations on predictions of breaker height, location, and undertow has been examined. In addition, simulations with one and two equation turbulence models were evaluated and results were compared with laboratory measurements of mean water level, trough and crest heights, undertow, and mean turbulence kinetic energy in order to evaluate the applicability of each approach in computing surf zone dynamics. Details of the breaking wave properties are presented and discussed.