MEDIUM-TERM 2DH COASTAL AREA MODELING

The state-of-the-art in depth-averaged mathematical modelling of 3-D coastal morphology is described for the medium-term morphodynamic model type, in which constituent models of waves, currents and sediment transport based on first physical principles are linked together to describe the time-evolution of the bed topography. Various aspects of the combined system of equations are discussed, such as its mathematical character, its inherent stability and its equilibrium state. The results of an intercomparison of different models are shown for two test cases and the potentials and limitations of the model concept are discussed.