WAVES AND CURRENTS ON NATURAL BEACHES - A QUASI-3-D NUMERICAL-MODEL

A realistic model of detailed sediment transport in coastal areas must include an accurate and complete description of the wave climate and wave-induced currents over the study area. The present paper summarizes different aspects of detailed wave and current calculations as the initial step to a more complete model for coastal processes. A PC based quasi 3-D model is developed and calibrated with laboratory experiments performed on a simulated infinitely long, natural beach. Tests were carried out for several wave conditions, for regular and random long-crested wave fields, and for two sand sizes.