Implications of nearshore processes on the significant wave height probability distribution

This paper analyzes the effect of hydrodynamic processes associated with the beach morphology on the long-term distribution of waves. This is made using the three parameter Weibull Probability Distribution Function for the significant wave height. The analysis shows the evolution of the Weibull position (A), scale (B) and shape (C) parameters at the three main scales of interest for engineering and coastal management applications. These are the plan (offshore) scale, the profile (surf) scale, and the swash (beach face) scale. Implications regarding processes, morphology, and numerical modeling were also analyzed and discussed. This paper illustrates how the probability distribution function of waves in the near shore zone is controlled by hydro-morphodynamic processes. The results lead to different probabilities and therefore risks for erosion or flooding, which have significant implications for coastal management decisions.