A simplex-optimized chromatographic separation of fourteen cosmetic preservatives:: Analysis of commercial products

An ion-interaction high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)-diode-array detection method is developed and optimized for the separation of typical antimicrobial agents used in cosmetics and hygiene products. The most used preservatives contain different molecular structures, different functionalities, and are characterized by different chemical properties. Organic acids, alkyl esters of benzoic acids, alkyl p-hydroxy benzoic acids (parabens), phenol derivatives, and carbanilides represent the most used preservatives, and are often present in multicomponent mixtures. In order to develop a multicomponent method to be used in quality control analysis, the ion-interaction reagent reversed-phase HPLC technique seems to be particularly suitable, because it allows for the simultaneous separation of acidic, basic, and neutral species. The experimental conditions of the method are developed by OVAT (one variable at a time) treatment and further optimized by a multivariate approach based on a Simplex algorithm that works on a desirability function targeted to maximize the resolution in a multicomponent mixture. The new method proposed that is able to simultaneously separate fourteen preservatives is applied in the analysis of commercial products.