Cheese made from raw milk represents an important proportion of the traditional cheeses, particularly in South European countries. Besides destruction of pathogenic bacteria, the most significant changes in milk relevant to cheesemaking, which are induced by pasteurization are: a partial elimination of the milk microorganisms which may grow in cheese during ripening, a partial or total activation or inhibition of the plasmin/plasminogen complex, cathepsin D, lipoprotein lipase and alkaline phosphatase. Enzymes from psychrotrophic bacteria, acid phosphatase and xanthine oxidase, which may be active during ripening, withstand pasteurization, a slight (7%) denaturation of serum proteins and little or no modification of the cheesemaking properties (coagulation, acidification by lactic acid bacteria). From experimental work carried out on several cheese varieties, comparing pasteurized or microfiltered milk and raw milk cheeses, it was found that facultatively heterofermentative lactobacilli, Micrococcaceae, enterococci, and propionibacteria in Swiss-type cheese, are found at higher levels in raw milk cheese. The main biochemical modification of cheese during ripening concerns the nature and extent of proteolysis. Although there is no clear trend in the breakdown of alpha(s1)- and beta-caseins, milk pasteurization leads to a significant decrease of the amount of small peptides and free amino acids and to different HPLC profiles. Experiments carried out with sensory analysis show that, in all cases, pasteurized or microfiltered milk cheeses have received lower flavour intensity scores than raw milk cheeses. From this review, it is concluded that the indigenous milk microflora, with its diversity of species and strains, appears to be mainly responsible of the specific sensory properties of raw milk cheeses. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.